Rhode Island's Culinary Tricks + Treats 2013

Rhode Island's Culinary Tricks + Treats 2013

For Halloween we decided to put together a list of favorite "Tricks and Treats" in the local food world. We want times when we are surprised by a feat that's hard to pull off; or impressed by one that celebrates simplicity. We scanned the local landscape and came back with 5...

Trick: Making the Humble Shine...Burger at Nick's on Broadway, Providence

Amongst cooks, the thing that impresses the most is elevating cheaper menu items into sublime dishes. So it is with the burger at Nick's. Truth be told, you can say that about most things on Derek Wagner's menu. The burger, however, is near perfection. The earthiness of the Blackbird Farm beef set against the sweetness of the onion jam and the sharp flavor of the mustard and Swiss cheese all combine to sweep you away to burger nirvana. The expertly-crisped fries don't hurt either. 500 Broadway, 421-0286, www.nicksonbroadway.com

Treat: Local Oysters in a Month that Ends in "R"...Hemenway's, Providence

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The story behind the saying "only eat oysters in months ending in "R"" actually has some merit. During the warm summer months oysters in the Northeast begin to spawn. As they do, they become watery. Not a good time to be enjoying them. As the fall begins to cool off, the oysters return to a more relaxed state and therefore to their briny goodness. We love them at the raw bar at Hemenway's. They always have a wide selection and include local faves like Matunuck and Wellfleet. Grab a glass of wine and enjoy a dozen with a friend...or, you know...by yourself. 121 South Main St. 351-8570, www.hemenwaysrestaurant.com

Trick: Aging Gracefully...Al Forno, Providence

Bless the folks at Al Forno. They have mastered the art of aging gracefully in the restaurant industry. That is a very difficult business to survive five years in, let alone the better part of 35, but they have flourished. Staying true to the original mission of local and seasonal food, they stand today as good as they have ever been. Classics like the grilled pizza and baked pasta get refined and, somehow, improved. We wish we could grow older as gracefully as this grande dame. 577 South Main St. 273-9760, www.alforno.com/

The Swiss Village Farm Foundation is located in Newport and is tasked with keeping America's heritage breeds alive and viable. The White Horse Tavern has partnered with the SVF Foundation to help honor the Tamworth pig. The foundation raised two of these heritage pigs this summer on a diet of white acorns and Chef Rich Silvia has prepared them in five courses and hors d'oeuvres that will showcase all the different parts of the animal.  Ham, pate, braised belly, rilette, they are all represented here. Contact the White Horse or the SVF Foundation for more information. Great cause made even better with pork! 26 Marlborough St. 849-3600, www.whitehorsenewport.com + www.svffoundation.org

Trick: Knowing When to Stop...English Cellar Alehouse, Providence

One of the hardest things in life is restraint. For a restaurant it's even harder. Look at the size of the menus at some chain restaurants and you will see what we mean. Hundreds of options, spanning every form of dining known to man, leave you shell-shocked. We hate the same thing in local restaurants. If you are a pub, have the best pub food you can, not every dish imaginable. We like reaching, not stretching. English Cellar is an English pub and that's it! It's got what a pub should have: fish and chips, pot pie, shepherd's pie, meatloaf and good burgers.  The beer selection is appropriate and the staff very knowledgeable. Just the way it should be. 165 Angel St. 454-3434, www.englishcellaralehouse.com