RI Chefs Preview Spring Menus
Ann and Michael Martini, GoLocalProv Contributors
RI Chefs Preview Spring Menus
Andrea Leonardo
Waterplace Restaurant, Providence
Chef Andrea Leonardo recently took the helm at this Downcity establishment, and we’re eager to see what she’ll produce. Judging on the dish she mentions here, it’ll be good. “One of my favorite things going into the warm weather are greens,” she says. “My favorite green is Arugula. I find that the peppery, bitter flavors can be pared with so many different items. One of my favorite ways to use arugula is on pizza. I like to make homemade dough and par-cook the shell. I then drizzle it with garlic-infused olive oil, and top with mozzarella cheese, Gorgonzola, thinly sliced prosciutto. When the pizza is still in the oven I toss the arugula with thinly sliced red onion, olive oil, sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper. I top the pizza it with the arugula salad and drizzle it with a balsamic glaze.” 1 Finance Way, Providence, 272-1040.
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Kevin Thiele
One Bellevue at the Hotel Viking, Newport
There isn’t much, it seems, that Chef Kevin Thiele doesn’t do well, and springtime ingredients in particular shine at his Newport restaurant, located within the historic and iconic Hotel Viking. “When the warmer months are coming up I love to use peas, baby carrots and mizuna greens,” says Chef Thiele. “We do a risotto that is popular. All the vegetables are sautéed with fresh herbs and roasted garlic, and we hit it with white wine and some butter and fold in the cooked al dente risotto. I garnish the dish with a fresh mizuna salad tossed with a light Meyer lemon vinaigrette.” Sounds perfectly bright and lovely to us. 1 Bellevue Ave, Newport 847-3300.
Coming soon to Providence
When Chef Joe Hafner (left) departed Gracie’s last year, fans of his upscale farm-to-plate cuisine got nervous. They won’t need to wait too much longer as Hafner has a plan in the works that will bring him back to Providence in his own space this fall. In the meantime, he waxes poetic about his favorite springtime ingredient. “Ramps—little wild alliums that grow for a short period of time in marshy, wooded areas. They are like a garlicy tender scallion married with a leek. They are very good if quickly sautéed and even stewed down a bit as a base for a hot/cold salad. At the end of the season I buy a bunch and pickle them so I can use them all year.”
Nemo Bolin
Cook and Brown Public House, Providence
Nemo and Jenny Bolin are still reeling from their early-spring nod from the James Beard House—a best restaurant nomination. With that feather in his toque, Chef Nemo is as eager as ever to work fresh new ingredients into is ever-evolving menu. “Spring means green for us,” he says. “Anything and everything green after a long, drab winter. Peas, asparagus, fava beans, fiddleheads, nettles, green garlic. We love the vibrancy and freshness that comes from all of these ingredients. As the weather begins to warm up we move away from heavy, rich, dark food and need to lighten things up a bit.” As Chef Bolin’s menu changes on a nightly basis, he can’t tell us exactly how he’ll work these favorites into his repertoire, but we’re sure it will be delicious. 959 Hope St, Providence, 273-7275.
Matt Jennings
La Laiterie at Farmstead, Providence
It’s been quite the banner year for Chef Jennings and his wife, pastry chef Kate. With a nod from the White House as well as the James Beard House, Chef Matt continues to carve out a niche as one of the top talents in the Northeast.
Edie Banky
The Canfield House, Newport
Chef Edie is in the process of making some seasonal changes to this classic and gorgeous Newport restaurant, so expect exciting things from her next month. “Some of my go to ingredients for spring are ramps, spring peas, morels, asparagus and in late spring fresh strawberries,” she says. “I might use ramps in a remoulade for seafood or in a risotto, spring peas in a succotash and sliced strawberries to top a lemon curd cream tart. Honestly it's limitless what you can do with these first signs of the bounty to come.” Memorial Blvd, Newport, 401-847-0416.
Eric Vienne
Waterman Grille, Providence
How appropriate that the fish tautog is a favorite spring ingredient of Chef Eric Vienne. The saltwater fish, known for its delicate flavor, was named by Roger Williams and means “taut” in the Narragansett language. “Tautog is one of my favorite spring fish and it is one of the first to arrive (around mid April),” says the chef. “I am using tautog for a beer dinner at the end of this month—doing it with Portsmouth potato fries, molasses vinegar and steamed clam remoulade. This dish is simple I love it.” We think we might, too! 4 Richmond Sq, Providence, 521-9229.
Robert Harrison
Mill’s Tavern, Providence
When you think of this North Main Street restaurant, you may think cozy dark woods and a wood-burning oven. But Mill’s is well-suited to featuring the harbingers of spring and summer. "When I think of Spring, I think of the bright vibrant colors and fresh flavors of fava beans and English peas,” says Chef Robert Harrison, “both of which are featured in our breast of veal dish on the Spring menu—breast of veal braised in bock beer with semolina gnocchi and ragout of fava beans, English peas, and spring onions. Additionally, I love fiddleheads, which have a very limited growing season, and are a traditional New England favorite. Whether combined with leeks in a creamy soup, or fried and tossed with cob smoked bacon and aged balsamic vinegar, they're a fun product to be enjoyed during their short window of opportunity.” 101 North Main St, Providence, 272-3331.